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 11 
 on: July 26, 2007, 04:01:38 pm 
Started by Sarge - Last post by Sarge
This article courtesy of General Cole. Thanks GC!

Modifying your new gun-
By General Cole

Okay, you just got back from Wal-Mart and you saw that new paintjob NF and bought it up.  First, make sure that you have a reliable brand of foam and many darts of the same size and OD.  If you already know your optimal barrel material and you have some great!  If not take the gun into consideration, if it is an air gun (the Magstrike is not an air gun, it is a plunger gun), find a barrel that is slightly loose, but your darts will not fall out of it, and see how that would fit into your gun.  If it is a springer, take your barrel and decide how to make your new barrel.  If it can fit very nicely into a coupler, it is probably good to use the coupler directly attached to your air source (for one shot guns).  If you have a springer, you might be able to put in a new spring for your gun.  If not, banding the gun is okay.  Play around with the bands and the gun and see how you can get them to attach to the gun, with one end attached to the plunger pull and the other end secured around the barrel.  If your gun is not a spring gun, but a pump gun (non-automatic), take out the pump and plug the valve.  Be very careful in doing this because over-pumping can cause explosion.  In these types of guns, you will want to use a looser barrel for your darts.  Using a coupler in these guns is very helpful.  If you think your gun is too large you might want to cut it down to a reasonable size.  Air restrictors in guns are common, but come in many different forms.  For a springer, look behind the original barrel for a weak and tiny spring attached to a round piece with prongs attached to it.  In air guns, look for holes in the original barreling and plug them with what ever is nearest.  In case you did not understand the dart-to-barrel sizes for the different guns mentioned before here is a list-

-Automatic Guns = It is probably best to use the original barrels for these guns, their tiny plungers and bad seals make it unreasonable to use anything else
-Pump Guns = Loose fit, probably 9/16 brass or SCH 80 PVC
-Springers = Tight fit, dart cannot have any travel between the dart and the barrel

Now that you have the gist of it, go and mod that gun of yours.  If you cannot figure out how to mod your gun, it is okay to use a mod from the NIC, but the more you tweak the mod to your darts or liking, the more you will like it.  Have fun, and do not be afraid of doing something completely new to a new gun.

 12 
 on: July 26, 2007, 03:48:07 pm 
Started by Sarge - Last post by Sarge
This modification is courtesy of General Cole. Thanks GC!



All previous DS mods use CPVC modded shells. This mod lets you save those dumb shells for your RFR and Mustang 6.  Thats right a DS mod that doesn't use shells.  Now on to how you do it.

Materials-
Hot Glue
Hot Glue Gun
E-Tape
DoubleShot
Hacksaw
Dremel
1/2in Thinwall PVC
1/2in CPVC
Pliars (Optional, it will save your fingers)
File (Optional, if you can't cut straight)
PVC Cutters

How To-
Take your DS.  Open the Gun up, not with a screw driver, open it to see where you load the shells.  Take your Dremel and start cutting on the orange ring that you push the shell into.  Cut where that little protrusion is.  You should be able to pull it out eventually, try not to damage the outside of the gun during this.  Here is what the removed orange piece looks like-



Then take your pliars or fingers and stretch the spring out as far as you can.  Here is a pic with one removed and one in progress-



Then take it and pull it to the right for the right barrel and to the left for the left barrel.  Try to pull it through the seam.  The end of the wire has a little bend so just pull like crazy until it comes out.



Now take the gun to a place where you can manuver pipe in it.  Now take your thinwall 1/2in pipe and insert it into where the springs and orange ring were.  It should be about 3in.  Mark that with a sharpie and cut it out using the pipe cutters.  Do this twice.



Then cut 2 3in sections of the CPVC and wrap it in E-Tape in two places until it is tight in the thinwall pipe.



Insert the CPVC into the thinwall and make it as flush as possible.  If it isn't close to flush the gun will be hard to flip up.  Now seal the ends with a small bead of hotglue, don't let it protrude out much.



Then insert it into where the shells used to go, no need to hot glue it there.  If you are in need of a challenge then try to open it up and give the strings one twist, then you don't have to open it as far to fully **** it.  Then hacksaw off the front just in front of the handgrip.  I glued mine on top of the actual barrel because I find it easier to hold.



Hopefully this helped!
 
 
 

 13 
 on: July 26, 2007, 03:36:08 pm 
Started by Sarge - Last post by Sarge
This modification courtesy of General Cole. Thanks GC!



Well when I got my EaB a few weeks back I loved it.  Scope and all.  Next I looked at my emergency supplies bucket of pipe and knives to mod on the road and looked at my measly pieces of pipe.  I opened her up and saw this.



Except because of my lack of long pipe sections I had to work with a 4.5ish barrel.  I took a piece of 3/8 steel with a rough edge and started cutting the orange plastic out of the original barrel with a spring.  Once I took out a fair amount of plastic I took my barrel with a few layers of duct tape until it was snug and stuck it in there.  I then added the pieces needed to hold the extending barrel in and put them back in so that it would stay in (This Part).



I then added the old spring from the barrel where it was.  My EaB's plunger rod is weak just before the old "O-Ring" so I couldn't add springs.  I put a small bead of hot glue into the area around the barrel.



After letting it sit overnight I whipped it out the gun and a few darts.  I grabbed a thicker one and went out and fired it.  Here are results-

Tight Dart (Had to Ramrod)- 52'
Medium Dart (Blew in but it was still hard)- 61'
Loose Dart (Blew Back)- 85', 94' (I think the wind caught it a bit), 89', 81'

And that is with no banding and no long barrel and no extra spring.

 14 
 on: July 26, 2007, 03:27:37 pm 
Started by General Cole - Last post by Sarge
Mods and articles like the DS mod or the new "Knowledge is YOUR best friend" article. Just to give the site more content.

-Sarge

 15 
 on: July 26, 2007, 03:16:54 pm 
Started by General Cole - Last post by Jacob
What stuff?

 16 
 on: July 26, 2007, 03:12:40 pm 
Started by General Cole - Last post by Sarge
Affirmative. Thanks Cole  Grin

-Sarge

 17 
 on: July 26, 2007, 03:18:49 am 
Started by General Cole - Last post by General Cole
SARGE- You have permission to transfer my stuff over here if ya want.  I am trying to keep it in FU and NX though.  Transfer it if ya want it, but increase my post count to match okay?

 18 
 on: July 23, 2007, 06:26:55 pm 
Started by Sarge - Last post by Sarge
Hello, everyone. I finally got my Titan after more than a month of checking stores and waiting for delivery! I got it last Wednesday and modded it Saturday, but right after I finished I went to my friend's house for D&D until 6:15 Sunday. Today I almost died at full-day soccer camp but I managed to get some time now for a quick write-up. Onward!

Materials
--Titan
--Longshot extension barrel or like
--Hotglue/gun (as always, epoxy is better)
--9/16ths brass
--Pocket knife or dremel
--Coping saw
--Barrel post (optional)

Barrel System
To do this mod you must cut the AR off the end of the stock Titan barrel (unless you don't want to fire the missile or stabilize the barrel). About 1.4 centimeters should do. I sanded down the end to take away the roughness and the edges on the end to make it not rip up the inside of the missile. Now take your LS extension barrel and cut it to 6.6 inches. There is a slanted thing in the back AR, you will want to completely level it and enlarge the inside of the little hole it's in by a teny tiny bit. Fit the flattest side of the LS barrel into that hole and make sure it's straight (you can check by screwing the stock barrel on). Hot glue or epocy it on,  but make sure not to let any glue get on the threads or right above them. Now cut the brass to 6.8 inches and wrap 2-3 layers of E-tape on it. here are some pictures of the system and the brass. The front side of the brass is the one with no E-tape on the very edge.



Now just cut some cardboard of foam-cor into a circle with a hole in the middle (I haven't done it yet) and slide it over the LS barrel, with the outside edge of the circle moderately tight against the inside of the Titan barrel. To use the blaster, put a dart in the back end of the 9/16 and slide it into the LS barrel. Pump 16 times if you haven't plugged the pump, level, and fire. I got around 100 feet flat with streamlines and my AP dart (look below), and about 150 angled. It won't go through cardboard for some reason but that's why I made my AP dart.

Behold, the SA-01 Prometheus HAP-R (by Stryker Arms)

HAP-R means Heavy Armor Piercing-Rifle.

Armor Piercing Dart
This should be pretty obvious. Just cut the barrel post in half and stick the least sharp ends into the holes of two darts (you have to take out the heads of course) and hotglue them in.  Remember" DO NOT SHOOT THESE AT PEOPLE! Except maybe if they are mugging you . They are designed for piercing cardboard so you know where your shot went if you are doing target practice, and just to see the huge hole . They do actually get as good as or better ranges than streamlines, so you could also use them to impress your friends with the range of your Titan.


There is a little problem sometimes with fishtailing; it can be solved in two ways:
1) pumping only 8-10 times
2) cross-drilling holes in the end of the brass

I hope you liked Stryker Arms' latest, first, and probably last for quite a while, modification.
Questions? Comments? Suggestions?

-Sarge

 19 
 on: July 23, 2007, 06:23:04 pm 
Started by Sarge - Last post by Sarge
I just wanted to let you guys know that I will be going to Colorado for almost all of August because of my dad's art shows (http://www.barnesstudios.com/). Please keep the site going while I'm gone, I really think we kan get this off the ground. Anyway I will probably have access to the internet for a few days each week so I won't be off the entire time.

-Sarge

 20 
 on: July 23, 2007, 04:56:21 pm 
Started by Sarge - Last post by Sarge
There is no guest posting, he posted and then deleted his account. I'll remove the post.

-Sarge

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